Wednesday, 13 May 2015

The bakery list

In a society dominated by a doughnut and coffee chain named after a hockey player who died 41 years ago that increasingly sells products that taste like they've been around that long too, many are wondering if there are decent alternatives for road trip refreshment or something good to take home for dessert or enjoy at the cottage or camp.  There are alternatives, and I don't mean that place with the big golden arch M for a sign either!  Over the years I've discovered some excellent small, independent, mostly family-owned bakeries that fill this need.  I've long kept the list an unwritten secret, but I decided to share it.  Summer travel season is starting soon and every place on my list is in a popular place to visit in the summer.  They're all in small towns and cities in Ontario and Quebec.  All are small businesses owned by people who take a lot of care in what they do.

Readers may notice that some places they expected to see listed are not.  There are two reasons for this.  One is, I cannot possibly visit every small bakery to find out how good it is.  Secondly, I have high standards when it comes to this kind of thing, and there are some places that even though are popular, just don't leave me with that "wow, that was great" type of impression.  The list follows for your enjoyment.

Ontario


Brockville and Kingston

Tait’s Bakery
Original Brockville location; 31 King Street West (downtown)
Uptown Brockville; 2123 Parkedale Ave. (north of Hwy. 401)
Kingston; 101 Dalton Ave.

This is a Brockville institution and three families have owned and operated it since 1908, the first being the Tait family.  I remember my Mom taking my sister and I to the downtown location for a treat when I was five years old when my Dad was at a work-related meeting nearby.  I have not been to the Uptown or Kingston locations, but the downtown shop is excellent.  Good breads, pastries, cookies, and cakes.  The doughnuts are very good, especially the cinnamon sugar or apple cider fry cakes—as deep-fried doughnuts are called in Eastern Ontario.  The sandwiches are very good and affordably priced for lunch.  The downtown location is near Brockville’s scenic St. Lawrence River waterfront, Canada’s first railway tunnel, and the impressive square in front of the courthouse.


Campbellford

Dooher’s Bakery
61 Bridge Street

Nothing bad comes from this bakery.  Amazing donuts, butter tarts, and cookies are the most popular items, but they make and sell a complete range of goods.  Everything is homemade and completely tastes like it too.  Dooher’s to me is the most complementary counterpart that Central and Eastern Ontario have to Culbert’s Bakery in Goderich in the southwestern part of the province.  This is another place where a customer has to show up early in order to be sure of getting something.  There are always lineups, especially on Saturdays in the summer.  Campbellford is a popular stopping point for recreational boaters on the Trent-Severn Waterway.  Ferris Provincial Park is also located on the southern edge of town with camping, trails, and the really amazing suspension bridge over the Trent River below Ranney Falls.  Also nearby is the Empire Cheese Factory, one of the best independent cheese factories still operating in Ontario.


Cornwall

Riley’s Bakery
248 Pitt Street
(613)932-6810

The cookies, tarts, and pastries are great, and the bread is excellent.  The shop offers very good sandwiches and salads for take-out at lunch.  This is very popular with downtown businesspeople and there is always a lineup at that time.  It is worth taking the short detour into the downtown area on Pitt Street instead of going to the usual fast-food chains on Brookdale Avenue (Highway 138) or Vincent Massey Boulevard (Highway 2).


Goderich

Culbert’s Bakery, 49 West Street (just off of The Square toward the beach)
(519)524-7941
“The home of tasty pastry.”

This family business has been open since 1877.  Everything is homemade.  The jelly-filled and cream-filled doughnuts are the most popular items.  Call ahead to order or show up at 8:00am when the shop opens.  They run out quickly and there is always a lineup on the sidewalk and people sit in their cars and wait.  The shop was damaged during the devastating tornado that struck Goderich in 2011 but later re-opened once repairs were complete.  It still looks like the 1950’s inside.  There’s even a sign behind the counter with the slogan; “If you want to prosper and keep alive, eat Culbert’s pastry, phone four-six-five,” which was their original telephone number.  During World War II, Culbert’s delivered their famous doughnuts to the Royal Air Force training base that was north of the town at Port Albert.  My late friend Frank Wilcox was training there and recalled eating them.  The airmen did not have much money so they would often split a single doughnut between two or three of them.  Culbert’s Bakery has become a highlight of many family visits to Goderich’s beautiful beaches or camping at nearby Point Farms Provincial Park.


Grand Bend

Grandpa Jimmy’s Scottish Bakery
36 Ontario Street N. (Highway 21)

Everything in this shop is homemade and it shows.  The cakes, cookies, and tarts are excellent.  As the name suggests, there is an emphasis on treats from Scotland, Britain, and Ireland.  The fern tarts and Empire cookies are my favourites.  They also have a great selection of quality tea and coffee with tables and chairs.  Grandpa Jimmy’s has become part of camping trips and day visits to the nearby Pinery Provincial Park.  Go to Grandpa Jimmy’s and not to the Tim Horton’s across the street!


Mildmay (honourable mention)
87 Elora Street (Highway 9)

Butter tarts from Harley’s Pub/The Coffee Perk.  This is not a bakery, but a coffee shop attached to a pub.  They are undeniably the best butter tarts I have ever tasted that did not come from my grandmother’s kitchen.  I worked as a radio news reporter in the area of Mildmay for a couple of years and Harley’s sometimes supplied butter tarts for press events.  Reporters were often almost fighting for the last one.  I introduced the tarts to my family and friends and they became known as “beer tarts” because they’re made in a pub.  Each Thanksgiving when we all meet for the last camping of the season at Inverhuron Park near Kincardine, I always pick up a few to take for everyone to enjoy.  Make sure you phone ahead though and place an order, they run out fast.


Pembroke

Klasis’ European Bakery and Café Ltd.
361 Isabella St.

Excellent European-style pastries.  Excellent sandwiches too.  Worth the extra time taken by driving into town from the Trans-Canada Highway (17).


Westport

Westport Bakery, 33 Main Street
(613) 273-7245

This is the most recent discovery I made and was quite impressed.  It’s a small shop owned by a Swiss couple, so some of the products are European, including Berliner doughnuts.  The cookies and butter tarts are very good.  The sausage rolls are very good and make a fast item to heat up in a toaster oven for a light lunch or dinner.  Several pies were also on display.  Westport is a very scenic village in the Rideau Lakes area.  The drive from Kingston on the Perth Road (County Road 10) or from the north on County Road 36 are among the nicest in Eastern Ontario.  Foley Mountain Conservation Area is located just north of the village off of County Road 10.  The view is excellent.


Québec

Gatineau

Fidélice
625 boul. de la Gappe (vieux Gatineau)
262 boul. St-Joseph (Hull)
425 chemin Vanier (Aylmer)

The very best in fine cakes and pastries.  If you are in Ottawa, it’s worth the drive to Gatineau.  Excellent for special occasions.  They also make their own chocolate at Easter.

La Balade des Douceurs
166 rue Montcalm (Hull)
(819)205-7088

Very good artisan breads.  White and olive are the most popular.


St-André-Avellin

Boulangerie artisinale Grains de Vie Inc.
3, rue St-Julie est
(819)983-1884

This is a great small shop.  The bread is the main attraction.  I highly recommend olive with herbs or the strong cheddar.  They sell the best chocolatines I’ve ever had too.  The shop sells other merchandise from the surrounding area, including chocolates, meats, and cheese from the very good Fromagerie des Folies Bergères, located nearby in Saint-Sixte.


Val-des-bois

East side of Route 309 near south end of the village.
« Boulangerie » is the only word appearing on the sign outside.  No telephone number or website is available.  This is a family-owned business in a small village surrounded by lakes and forests.  Hours are sometimes unpredictable, but if you happen to be passing through on Route 309, it’s worth checking to see if the shop is open.  The raisin buns and chocolate chip biscuits are really good.  There is a complete offering of all breads, cakes, and pastries.  Nothing from here is a disappointment. 


Wakefield (La Pêche)

Boulangerie Wakefield Bakery
813 chemin Riverside
(819)459-1528

Very good pastries, pies, and doughnuts.  Their Nanaimo bars are the second-best I’ve ever had.  The first best were made by my late childhood neighbour Mrs. Fraser.  It’s a great place to grab a snack before going for a hike in Gatineau Park or a walk along the Gatineau River in this attractive little village.  Parking is often the only challenge.  Wakefield is a 20 minute drive north of Gatineau and Ottawa and is a popular destination on weekends.  There’s always a farmer’s market nearby on the field by the Alpengruss Café every Saturday with a really good selection of local produce, meat, and cheese.

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