No one could accuse me of being a discriminating diner. And that urban cliché "foodie" has never been used to describe my keenness on cuisine, nor is it in my own vocabulary.
I'm spending a few days in Montreal for research and am of course eating in restaurants much more often than I do in Gatineau and Ottawa. My budget is limited and so is my penchant for adventurous culinary offerings.
A booklet in the room at the small hotel where I am staying on rue St-Denis lists several restaurant options. Under the "Local Cuisine" section I noticed Restaurant La Binerie Mont-Royal, located on Ave. Mont-Royal. I looked at their website and online reviews and decided to give it a try. As it's name suggests, baked beans are their speciality. They have been serving them since 1938. However, I am not a fan of baked beans so I decided to try the many other options. This restaurant prides itself on plain, homestyle Quebecois cuisine. The interior of this completely reflects the intention. The width of the restaurant is probably only about 20 feet. Most of the seating is at the counter, although I took a table on the opposite wall that was only about two feet wide. The seats looked like they had been made as a Saturday project by a member of the owner's family using materials purchased at a regular hardware store. Behind the counter there were wall old wall plaques like a grandmother would have hanging throughout her house. There was even a crucifix hanging above the door to the back kitchen. It really felt like someone's home. Had it not been for the computer monitor and debit machine by the cash, the place looks like it's 1956, Maurice "Le Chef" Duplessis is still Prime Minister (they use the full title here) of Quebec, "La famille Plouffe" is the most popular program on television, and everyone goes to Mass at least once a week. There's even a black rotary dial telephone behind the counter. I asked the waitress if it works and she said yes. I still have one in use at my apartment in Gatineau too. The opposite wall was covered in lithographs of life in New France.
I decided upon the meatballs and gravy with mashed potatoes and vegetables. I went for the complete meal which was a great value, coming to just under $14.00 after the sales tax. The pea soup that came before it was the best I'd ever had. It did not taste like that wallpaper paste Habitant pea soup from a can I remember eating as a kid. Nor did it taste like that salty, opaque green pea soup I have also had. The main course really looked and tasted like something that could have been served in any home. After a day that was at times stressful, comfort food is indeed comforting. Three large meatballs that actually showed evidence that there was real meat in them. Brown gravy that was obviously homemade. Two scoops of real mashed potatoes. I could tell they were real because there were actually chunks of un-mashed potato in them. The vegetables were cubed carrots and turnip. It was great. I know that the "foodies" and hipsters would scoff at this derisively, but it was fantastic. Dessert was homemade pouding chomeur, that sweet soft cake pudding in a maple-brown sugar sauce. Coffee or tea was included. I chose tea. I expected Red Rose or Salada (it's made in Montreal), but it was ironically Twinings Earl Grey, blended and packaged in London England, and also "By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen." It seemed quite fitting I suppose since today is her actual 89th birthday. I am a cautious monarchist. I respect the institution and what it means, but the largesse and elitism within it does not impress me very much at all. I do like Elizabeth II however because of her longevity, faith, and perseverance.
So I finished my ironic cup of tea and paid the kind lady behind the counter and walked by to the hotel. It was a small piece of authentic Quebec and authentic Montreal. La Binerie Mont-Royal has endured through decades of change in Quebec society and the preferences of restaurant diners. It's so comforting to find a place that provides comfort food in a comforting way.
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